A Time for Temples

The Eighth Wonder of the Ancient World, according to our guide, is what the Angkor Archeological Site has been called by UNESCO, and it’s true.  It is a site unique in its size, its architecture and its beauty.  Like the pyramids, Petra, and the Acropolis, it must be seen in person to be appreciated because the physical setting is as much a part of the whole as the buildings themselves.  The ruins are the remains of the Khymer civilization which ruled over the areas that are now Cambodia, Thailand, Laos and Vietnam between the 9^th and 13^th centuries.  Jayavarman II (r. 802-850 CE) is thought to have established the first Devaraj (god-king) state in the early 9^th century.  A Hindu, Jayavarman II, was the first to start building a series of pyramid temples representing Mount Meru, centre of the universe and home of the gods.   His successors for the next four centuries would each build their own temples which, upon their deaths, could serve as the kings’ mausoleums.  We were only able to visit the three most well-known temples during our short stay:  Bayon, the Tomb Raider Temple, and Angkor Wat.  To enter the city area, you must first cross a wide moat; the bridge is protected by a 7-headed Naga, and statues on both balustrades represent the demons and gods who staged a tug of war for the earth. 

Bayon was our first stop.  The Japanese are currently in charge of restoring the site and we stopped at a small demonstration area showing us how the limestone blocks were prepared to be lifted into place on the temple buildings.  Bayon was pretty much in ruins, but the central spire towering 75 feet above the site was something to behold, along with the stone carvings telling the story of life in the Ancient Khymer kingdom and the extensive maze of fallen walls marking various chambers and shrine areas. 

We next moved to the temple known as Ta Prohm, the Tomb Raider temple.  This site has been left almost as it was when first found covered with the roots of trees.  It’s called the Tomb Raider site because that was where the movie was filmed.  I’m constantly amazed by the film site trend in tourism.  Tourists are more excited about walking in the footsteps of movie stars than walking in the steps of kings and commoners from an ancient and mysterious civilization.  They can have it both way in Angkor. 

After visiting the Tomb Raider site, we returned to Raffles for a quiet interlude and lunch.   

…to be continued