Oh My, Oh My, Oman!

Oman was such a beautiful change from Dubai.  Known as an important trading center between West and East since the first century of the Common Era, Muscat, the capital city, sits on a natural bay and is surrounded by large rocky outcrops (I can’t bring myself to call them mountains, although the locals do.)  It has been inhabited by various indigenous tribes, the Persians, the Balochis and Gujaratis, and the Portuguese.  It is currently ruled with what is considered to be a benevolent iron fist by the Sultan Qaboos Said, a very handsome gentleman who has ruled since 1970 and who, surprisingly enough, does not have any heirs.  The guide told us the Sultan recently made a will stating that if his family cannot decide on his successor after his death, the Army should take over.  I guess he never considered letting the people decide.

Oman is, however, a very tolerant and pleasant city.  Women can own property and drive.  It claims to be the second cleanest city in the world after Singapore and, like, Singapore, it is because the Sultan has decided to make it so.  Like in the UAE, the men wear those beautiful pristine white robes and look very elegant.  The Sultan was educated in England and made another good decision in that, unlike Dubai, he does not allow any tall skyscrapers.  Also unlike Dubai which virtually stretches down one or two main thoroughfares, Muscat spreads out extensively into the desert.   It looks and feels very much like an Arab city. 

The Sultan's Palace in Muscat

 The Grand Mosque which was built by Sultan Qaboos and finished in 2007, rivals the Mosque of Abu Dhabi in beauty.  In fact, I guess I would have to put it a notch above because of the beautiful gardens which surround it and the pink tinged marble in some of it courtyards.  Both buildings feel holy and peaceful when you enter the main prayer hall; they make you want to bow or cross yourself or give some other sign of humility because they are so awe-inspiringly beautiful.  I wish they were not marred by the presence of disapproving men who scowl at the women and make us pull our uncomfortable hot scarves more tightly around any sight of skin.  Why would God be offended by two inches of a woman’s skin showing above the wrists?  Why would God be offended by women?


Sultan Qaboos and two predecessors

On our brief morning tour, we also saw the President’s ceremonial palace, where he receives other heads of state, and, of course, the souks where we were tempted by the kaftans and pashmina shawls.  All in all, I wouldn’t mind going back to Oman.  You never hear much about it in news reports, and that is probably a good thing.  It’s a beautiful and peaceful little country.  Insha’Allah, it will stay that way.