Wednesday, July 6, 2011

And the morning and the evening were the first day...



Istanbul is an easy city to like. The long drive from the airport hugged the coastline of the Sea of Marmara. Lined with clean and spacious public parks, cooled by sea breezes and shaded by large trees, the area is obviously popular with locals as many people were strolling, barbequing and playing sports in the seaside parks. Our taxi finally turned up a hill into narrow, cobblestoned streets, wound its way through a district lined with restaurants and hookah bars, and finally stopped in front of the Uyun Hotel. We have a large room, very clean and well-furnished, even equipped with a jacuzzi. Even though we were all suffering from sleep deprivation, we couldn't wait to visit the hotel's rooftop terrace. Indeed, it was the picture of the rooftop terrace on the internet which attracted us to the Uyun Hotel in the first place. It was even better than advertised, with a spectacular view of both the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sofia. We slept so soundly that we missed the hotel's breakfast this morning, so we strolled up the street to Sultanhamet Square, a difficult task for Dwight over pitted cobblestones, and had a stiff cup of coffee and panini sandwich. The people here are incredibly friendly and helpful. It's not an easy place for people who are "mobility impaired," but young men often rushed to help Dwight climb stairs and maneuver his walker. Of course, the young men are standing in front of their shops trying to snare a stray tourist, so they are always well-tuned-in to what is happening around them. Most places, people are so locked into their own interior worlds that they don't notice someone struggling with the terrain. During the afternoon while Dwight met with a local client, I was ready to make my pilgrimmage to Hagia Sofia, but first I needed to look for a battery for my watch. While strolling down the shopping street, I was accosted by a young man who wanted to show me his shop. I'm such an easy mark. Is that a good thing or a bad thing? What could I do after meeting his father and being treated to a cup of tea but buy a lovely ceramic dish? I really think it was the memory I was buying; not often am I accosted by young men in the street.

Hagia Sofia is magnificent, but somewhat marred by the crowds, no hoards, of people. There were people of every size, shape, and nationality. Many of them were trailing after guides who held aloft banners for the tour groups to follow. I was happy not to have an agenda. I rented an audio guide, which was helpful but not overwhelming in its information. After lecturing on the history and art of the Hagia Sofia in both my Western Civ and Humanities classes, it was very familiar to me. My favorite was the Byzantine mosaics. They should get rid of the huge black discs with Koranic calligraphy. It was hot!

We met the Garsts for dinner and enjoyed the cool sea breezes on yet another rooftop terrace. Now we'll try to sleep at the end of a very pleasant day, hoping our body clocks have forgotten all about Colorado. On the second plane journey yesterday when I hadn't slept at all and two babies managed to cry throughout the 2 1/2 hour ride, I was beginning to wonder if it was all worth it to make this journey. Now I know it was.

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