Turkey--Past and Present

Today offered an interesting contrast in Turkey past and present. The morning was spent at Topkapi Palace which presented a visual picture of the order and opulence of the Ottoman Empire. The Palace grounds consist of three courtyards, each one a bit smaller and more exclusive than the preceeding one. The Sultan remained virtually secluded in the third court area and in the Harem, where family life took place. The Harem, as most know, was also where young girls were brought and trained to please the Emperor, each once hoping to be lucky enough to bear for him a Crown Prince. Affairs of state were conducted by a Council of Viziers in the Second Court. Foreign officials and ambassadors were received in the Third Court, many of them bearing valuable gifts which are now displayed in the Treasury Rooms. Also displayed are sacred Islamic relics including the Staff of Moses and the footprint of Mohammed, along with the dagger that was supposedly stolen by a band of jolly bandits in the movie Topkopi, the first caper movie ever. Say what you will about the opulent and autocratic Ottomans, they presided over a relatively peaceful Eastern Mediterranean. The break-up of the Ottoman Empire created political problems which reverberate in our own times.

The afternoon was spent in modern Turkey. Dwight had contacted a company with which he does business and they invited us to tour their facility. A young man picked us up and drove up past the airport to the far west of the city past hills covered with apartment buildings, factories, office buildings, and shopping areas. Modern Turkey has a vibrant and growing economy. The people are hard working and educated, many getting their education and training in the United States or Western Europe. Kudos to Dwight for his business venture which is opening up avenues for cooperation and selling American products abroad. And kudos to the modern Turks for joining the 21st century and the global village.

All of which begs the question of why we have seen so many YOUNG women covering everything but their eyes such as seen in the photo taken at a restaurant this evening? It was painful watching her try to eat, and yet we have seen many of these women trailing behind their men in the Sultanhamet tourist area where we are staying. I asked our hosts at the Turkish factory about the prsence of so many black-clad women. They speculated that since it was a tourist area they probably aren't Turkish as the black garb and face covering are not a frequent choice of Turkish women. The Turkish women who cover up at least wear bright clothing and nothing to cover their faces. They also are free to work and move about in society without the constant company of a man. The Turkish businessmen speculated that the women in Sultanhamet might be coming from Syria to escape the problems there. Sigh. What to say? Nothing. The picture says it all.