Olympia

Sunday was the perfect day to visit the sacred ground of Olympia. We docked in the charming little port of Katakalon and rented a car to negotiate the 35 or so kilometres to Olympia. The archeological ruins, like those of Knosos, exceeded my expectations. Photos just cannot convey the lay of the land or the "feel" of location and place. It was a beautiful area, well sited with a temple area, an area for offical and priestly housing, a grand boulevard, and, of course, the stadium itself. The area has been honored as one sacred to divinity since a very early time, although the earliest divinity honored there was Hera, not Zeus. In fact, one of the oldest temples there is a small one dedicated to the earth goddess Rhea, or Cybele. During the games of ancient and classical Greece, women were not allowed on the site. They were only permitted in the outlying areas where there were brothels and other conveniences to service the athletes. It's amazing to think that the games at Olympia took place every four years from 776 BCE until they were forbidden by the Emperor Theodosis II in 393 CE, a total of over one thousand years. It's equally impressive to understand that a month-long truce was observed to allow people to travel to and participate in the games, especiallly when you realize that the Greek city states were always fighting amongst themselves. To the ancient Greeks, life was all about "agon" --struggle and competition. Winners at Olympia were honored in their home towns with statues, feasting and poetry. Tonight at dinner, we shared a table with three other couples and the agon continued with each couple recounting the number, cost and destinations of cruises they had been on as if they were struggling for Olympic cruising laurels.

One of my favorite things at the site was the row of pedistals leading into the arena, each of which had held a statue of Zeus. It seems that athletes who were caught cheating were required to pay a fine and the fines were used to finance the statues. Further, on each pedistal, the names of the cheaters and their offenses were carved for all the world to see. Dwight suggested that we add some names like Lance Armstrong, Roger Clemons, Barry Bonds... the list could go on. Again, human nature has not changed much, but the way we deal with social transgressions has changed considerably. Actually, maybe not. I think the ancient Greeks also invented the concept of the law courts and understood that cases could be decided by the eloquence of the argument rather than the preponderance of the evidence.

The archeological museum contained many interesting and beautiful pieces. The Great Temple to Zeus, which was almost as large as the Parathenon, had remained standing until the 6th century when a series of earthquakes finally brought it down. Much of the statuary from the building is on display in the museum along with other important pieces. The most beautiful is probably the statue of Hermes carrying the infant DIonysus.

Back on the ship, I honored the sacred day by attending ecumenical services led by our Cruise Director Willie Aames. You may remember (probably not) that he played a small role in the TV series Eight Is Enough and The Love Boat. He says he is an ordained minister and has studied with Franklin Graham (Billy's son) and J.D. Jakes. He actually gave a pretty good message for a born-again type. I think he fancies himself as a modern-day Paul travelling around the Mediterranean spreading the message.

The idea of a sacred site and a sacred day begs the question of whether or not our Western culture holds anything (or any place) sacred. From the behavior and dress of the hordes of tourists touring these sites, one would have to say no. The profane rules.

Interesting day altogether. Wish you were here.